Foiling - Lesson 6 - Foiling with Stencils
The first part of this post is READ ONLY - do NOT start using this technique until you reach the 'What to do' part.
I had planned to only mention this procedure because you will see it listed as an option on some YouTube videos. However I have now had a play with the technique and altered it and it works! Only for foiling onto a paper layer - but it can be really effective.
I am going to start with some words of caution. I tried this with Kaisercraft stencils - the blue plastic ones - following a YouTube demonstration, and the stencils warped due to the heat from the metal shim.
I suggest that you always check that your stencil is NOT in contact with the metal shim, and that you only have it in the platform for the time required to heat the foil. Also, maybe do not use your favourite or very expensive stencils!
If you decide to use metal stencils such as the ones from Dreamweaver, be aware that rolling metal stencils through your die-cutting machine will bend the stencil to some degree and it will no longer lie flat for its original use with texture paste.
If you have old brass stencils that you are never ever going to use as a stencil you might like to try them for this technique. Or not! However I HAVE had great results with my Tim Holtz stencils.
The videos and literature suggest this layering order - DO NOT DO THIS
hot metal shim
stencil - 'right' side down
foil - pretty side down
cardstock - right side down
paper or thin card shim
What to do: (yes, you can start playing along now)
Please note - these instructions are less detailed than the first few - I am assuming you have become more confident in the use of the machine. If you have not worked through the earlier lessons, please read Lesson 2 where the metal shim was introduced.
My feeling is that the plastic stencils should not be in contact with the hot metal shim. I am going to suggest we reverse the order used by YouTube people to this:
If you are unsure that your paper will line up correctly over your foil, you can hold the two layers together then flip them over onto the metal shim - the side where my thumb is will go against the metal shim.
On top of these I placed the stencil - good side down, then two thicknesses of my usual card shim.
I actually started with one thickness but when I gently peeled away one corner of the foil backing (holding all the layers together so the stencil did not move). I could see that the foil had not bonded with the paper layer. So I replaced everything and added another shim. I now know that the resistance from the BigShot when I wind the platform through has to feel close to the limit of what I would wind through it.
Here is the foiled paper layer, ready for colouring with inks. After you have done any of the foiling on to paper or card techniques you can then colour over with Distress inks or Distress Oxides inks. The foil acts as a resist and does not absorb the ink.
If your sponge dauber has not removed all the ink from the foil surface, just wipe over with paper towel once you have finished inking.
I am using Distress ink - ground espresso
The finished card.
The back foiled area has matte antique gold foil.
The chipboard words have shiny gold foil (the one that came with the machine).
The music is a die-cut - Spellbinders D'Lites.
The panel framing the wording was done by masking a very narrow border with green painters' tape, then applying the ground espresso ink through the same stencil as for the background foiling.
Antique linen Distress ink was then added to the area within the bordered area before peeling away the tape.
STENCILS SUMMARY :
I am going to start with some words of caution. I tried this with Kaisercraft stencils - the blue plastic ones - following a YouTube demonstration, and the stencils warped due to the heat from the metal shim.
I suggest that you always check that your stencil is NOT in contact with the metal shim, and that you only have it in the platform for the time required to heat the foil. Also, maybe do not use your favourite or very expensive stencils!
If you decide to use metal stencils such as the ones from Dreamweaver, be aware that rolling metal stencils through your die-cutting machine will bend the stencil to some degree and it will no longer lie flat for its original use with texture paste.
If you have old brass stencils that you are never ever going to use as a stencil you might like to try them for this technique. Or not! However I HAVE had great results with my Tim Holtz stencils.
The videos and literature suggest this layering order - DO NOT DO THIS
hot metal shim
stencil - 'right' side down
foil - pretty side down
cardstock - right side down
paper or thin card shim
What to do: (yes, you can start playing along now)
 |
| What I used for the card shown above. |
Please note - these instructions are less detailed than the first few - I am assuming you have become more confident in the use of the machine. If you have not worked through the earlier lessons, please read Lesson 2 where the metal shim was introduced.
My feeling is that the plastic stencils should not be in contact with the hot metal shim. I am going to suggest we reverse the order used by YouTube people to this:
- GoPRess platform - heated
- metal shim - heated
- foil - pretty side down
- paper - good side down onto the back of the foil (my feeling is that card will be too thick to transfer the pressure from the stencil)
- stencil - 'right' side down (I used Tim Holtz ones with good results)
- thin card shim - I needed two pieces - you are looking for similar pressure to normal die-cutting when winding through the die-cutting machine
- wait 30 seconds
- wind SLOWLY through die-cutting machine
If you are unsure that your paper will line up correctly over your foil, you can hold the two layers together then flip them over onto the metal shim - the side where my thumb is will go against the metal shim.
On top of these I placed the stencil - good side down, then two thicknesses of my usual card shim.
I actually started with one thickness but when I gently peeled away one corner of the foil backing (holding all the layers together so the stencil did not move). I could see that the foil had not bonded with the paper layer. So I replaced everything and added another shim. I now know that the resistance from the BigShot when I wind the platform through has to feel close to the limit of what I would wind through it.
Here is the foiled paper layer, ready for colouring with inks. After you have done any of the foiling on to paper or card techniques you can then colour over with Distress inks or Distress Oxides inks. The foil acts as a resist and does not absorb the ink.
If your sponge dauber has not removed all the ink from the foil surface, just wipe over with paper towel once you have finished inking.
The finished card.
The back foiled area has matte antique gold foil.
The chipboard words have shiny gold foil (the one that came with the machine).
The music is a die-cut - Spellbinders D'Lites.
The panel framing the wording was done by masking a very narrow border with green painters' tape, then applying the ground espresso ink through the same stencil as for the background foiling.
Antique linen Distress ink was then added to the area within the bordered area before peeling away the tape.
STENCILS SUMMARY :
Layering - from platform up:
Heat required - machine is ON
Metal shim - heated
Foil - coloured side down
Paper - good side down
Stencil
Shim
Close platform, allow to reheat and wind through die-cutting machine
Paper - good side down
Stencil
Shim
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